Hair classified as type 4B is described as very tightly curled, though the curls tend to form z-shaped angles versus a pattern of defined coils. Since most heads of curls possess several different types, it's normal to find a mix of coils amongst the 4B pattern. Though many women opt to chemically straighten 4B hair for ease when straight styling, you can produce many straight or curly styles when leaving this versatile hair type in its natural state. This type hair is one of the most fragile, so it's important to handle it very carefully, during all styling sessions.
Two-strand Twists
Because 4B-type hair tends to shrink considerably as it dries, two-strand twists are often used to stretch the hair while it's wet. This style is obtained by parting small sections of hair, combing a moisturizing product through it, separating each section into halves, and twisting them onto each other as you work down to the ends. The hair remains elongated when dry, and the style lasts for several days if you cover it securely at night with a silk or satin scarf. This prevents the twists from unraveling and minimizes frizz from tossing and turning while sleeping. Leave the twists free or secure them in a ponytail or creative up-do for variations on this style.
Twist-out
The twist-out is an easy transitional style from the two-strand twists when they begin to loosen or get frizzy. This simple style is obtained by slowly and carefully unraveling the two-strand twists. To eliminate any frizz, add an anti-frizz product to each section of the twists after unraveling. Once the product is dry, gently fluff the hair to achieve the fullness desired and to remove any visible parts left from the twisted style. The resulting style is full with defined waves. This style can last a few days beyond the twisted style if you keep the waves intact by covering the hair with a silk or satin scarf or by pulling the hair up into a high ponytail when sleeping.
Roller-set
Setting the hair on rollers is a gentler method than using a hot curling iron for producing smooth curls on fragile 4B hair. The hair is styled by applying a setting product or leave-in conditioner to soaking wet hair, parting the hair in sections, and rolling each section onto a hair curler, based on the curl size you desire. Sitting under a hooded dryer is the typical method for drying the curls quickly, but allowing the hair to dry naturally will produce similar results without the heat. Once the hair is completely dry, remove the curlers and gently fluff the hair for a smooth, curly style. You can transition into a straight style by combing out the curls, parting the hair in sections and flat-ironing them until you achieve the desired result. Retain either style for several days by loosely securing the hair and sleeping on a silk or satin pillowcase. Re-roll any fallen curls, using a little of your setting product, and allow them to dry completely before you unroll them.
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